Forza 3 Drift Tuning *TUT*

Tuning Guide for Drifting

I’ve noticed a lot of people that are new to drifting asking for help on how to tune. Well this thread will help you out on how to generally tune your car for drifting. If anyone has a suggestion, i will add it to this post.


Generally, any Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) car is capable of drifting. try to avoid Mid-Engine and Rear-Engine cars as the weight distribution will be more towards the rear and it will tend to make the car more grippy. I’m not saying that Mid-Engines and Rear-Engines can’t drift. If you tune them correctly, they can be very effective. (I recall that Killa Kali has a Porsche that drifts very well). Keep in mind that some cars can be converted to RWD after purchasing them.


Platform and Handling- Most people prefer all Race Platform and Handling, but the Weight Reduction, Roll Cage, and Anti-Roll Bars are not required. I would suggest Race everything. Drivetrain- Race everything Wheels- Try to avoid using Racing Slicks (they are not allowed in competitions). Stick with Stock or Street tire compound. Tire Width- This is personal preference. I personally upgrade the Rear all the way and leave the Front stock so that i get more grip on the rear for speed, but others prefer to have the Front wider than the Rear. Play with it and see what you like. Rims and Rim size are optional, but i recommend Leaving the size stock and picking a pair of lightweight rims. Aspiration-You have the choice of a Single turbo, Twin Turbo, Twin-Screw Supercharger, and a Centrifugal Supercharger. Most people stick with a single turbo, but you may experience something called “Turbo Lag”. What is Turbo Lag? While drifting, the turbo takes a few seconds to spool up. When it finally spools up, it lets out a “boost” of speed. Sometimes the boost of speed can catch you off guard and may cause you to spin out. Some people avoid using turbos for this reason, but if you get used to the “Turbo Lag”, then you can use it to your advantage. i.e. coming out of corners, you can gain a lot of speed from turbo lag. Performance- The only required part is the flywheel. I recommend using a Sport Flywheel instead of a Race Flywheel. All other parts are optional, but be civil with the horsepower. Most cars can drift with around 400hp. anything over 650hp is not allowed in competitions (this is subject to change). KEEP IT S CLASS OR LESS! R class cars are not allowed in competition.


Tire Pressure: Tire pressure is measured in PSI. The more PSI you have, less of your tire will be touching the pavement which causes it to lose traction and vice versa. You generally want the Front tires to have a lower PSI than the Rear tires because it allows the Front tires to gain grip while the Rear loses traction. Most people use anywhere from 30-35 on the front and 35-40 on the rear. Alignment: [b]Camber[/b]- Always keep the front and rear camber NEGATIVE! Positive Camber is not allowed in competitions. The more Negative Camber you apply to your car, the more the tops of the tires will angle toward each other. Diagrams for camber Below (view from the front of the car) 0 Camber |_|-------------|_| <--- those are the tires. lol

Negative Camber /_/--------------_\ <---- Sexy

Positive Camber _--------------/_/ <---- Not sexy

(Special thanks to Gr4phic for the Camber diagrams)

The purpose of Camber is to make as much of the tires touching the pavement as possible while drifting. How do you tune camber? The front camber will generally be anywhere from -4 to -5 and the rear will generally be from -1 to -2. Set your front to -5 and rear to -2 and then drift a couple laps on a track. Watch the replay with telemetry on and toggle over until it shows how much camber you have on your tires. Watch the camber while you drift. You want it to be as close to 0 without going into the positives as possible. If the Rear is constantly at around -.5 while drifting, add a little bit more positive camber (around -1.7) and repeat the process until it stays very close to 0 camber while drifting. This is a very long process, but it’s worth it. [b]Toe[/b]- Toe is how close or far apart the fronts of the tires are from each other. More Diagrams (from the top of your car and the car is pointing up ^)

*0 Front Toe || ||<- front tires

                 |_|        |_| &lt;- rear tires

*Positive Toe _\ /_/ <- front tires

                   |_|     |_| &lt;-rear tires

*Negative Toe /_/ _\ <- front tires

                   |_|      |_| &lt;- rear tires

On your car, you want Positive Toe on the front of your car. The more Positive Toe you add, the more angle it allows you to achieve while drifting.
On the rear, you generally want anywhere from 0 to -.5 Toe. I don’t mess with Rear Toe because it screws me up BIG time. Play around with it and see what you like. Keep in mind that Toe will affect your camber while drifting.
Front Caster-Front caster is how far the top of your shock is pointing toward the front of your car
More diagrams (your car is pointing -->)
1 caster | <-shock
O <- wheel (terrible diagram)
7 caster \ <- shock
O <- wheel
Sorry for my lack of Diagram-Making Skills
7 caster is generally what most people use (including me)

Anti-Roll Bars

Here comes the fun part where Math takes place. Here’s the formula: (A-B)C+B=X I’ll break it down for you. A= the stiffest setting (This will always be 40 if you install Race Anti-Roll Bars) B= the softest Setting (This will always be 1 if you Install Race Anti-Roll Bars) C= how much weight is on the front/rear of your vehicle (this can be found by going to your garage and scrolling over your car and pressing the “Y” button) Here is what you would do for Front Anti-Roll Bars: You take the stiffest setting (40) and subtract the softest setting (1). Then you take that answer and multiply it by how much weight is on the front of your car. Then you take that answer and add the softest setting (1). Example: Let’s say you have 52% on the front. You would do... 40-1=39 39 x .52=20.28 (round to 20.3) 20.3=1=21.3 [b]21.3[/b] would be the Front Ant-Roll Bar setting. For the Rear, you would do the same process, but use 48% instead of 52% because if 52% is on the front, then 48% is on the rear (obviously). So you would do... 40-1=39 39 x .48=18.72 (round to 18.7) 18.7+1=19.7 [b]19.7[/b] would be the Rear Anti-Roll Bar. I know it seems like a lot of work, but after a while you will memorize the process. The purpose of this is so that your car is perfectly balanced.


To determine the springs, you do the same formula as the anti-roll bars. (A-B)C+B=X Keep in mind that the softest and stiffest setting will be different on every car. Let’s say the stiffest setting was 1000 and your softest was 100 and you had 52% weight on the front. you would do... 1000-100=900 900 x .52=468 (round to the nearest .5) 468+100=568 [b]568[/b] would be the Front Spring setting. Rear: 1000-100=900 900 x .48=432 432=100=532 [b]532[/b] would be the Rear Spring setting.

Fine tuning your Suspension

After doing the calculations to find out your Spring Settings, you may find that it doesnt feel right on some tracks. Well this will help you fine tune your car for a specific track.
The tighter you make your Suspension, the less weight will transfer to the sides of your car while drifting. This is ideal for tighter tracks and quick Transitions (a Transition is when you are drifting and you transfer the weight of your car to the other side which causes your drift to change direction). A track that you would want tighter Springs is Tsukuba Short. But watch out because if your springs are too stiff, your car will want to spin out all the time
The softer you make the Suspension, the more weight will transfer to the sides of your car while drifting. This is ideal for High Speed tracks with longer corners and easy Transitions such as Maple Valley or Suzuka. If your springs are too soft, too much weight will tranfer to the out side of your car while drifting which slows you down alot and makes you more likely to stall out.
*Fun Fact-Having a hard time keeping up with people, but you already have 650hp? If you soften the Rear Suspension, it causes more weight to transfer to the rear which gives you more traction. As you probably guessed, more traction = more speed.

Ride Height-

[b]"The Tip:[/b] When you go to the ride height, It is always better to have the front end slightly higher than the rear end. The reason so is because you need the extra support for the engine when you brake. (Note: This is for both Mid Engine and Front Engine) [b]The Reason:[/b]When you brake, the car's mass is shifted from being in the center of the car to the front of the car. You can see this effect happen by looking at the Body Accelerometer when you press "Up" on the D-Pad. So you ask, "Well, why does this have to happen for Mid Engine?" Well, although making a car Mid Engine balances out the center of gravity of the car, when you hit the brake, a Mid Engine car has to deal with the equal amount of body acceleration applied. Therefore, upraising the front end of the car will give the front engines a bit of relief and Mid Engines more stopping power. [b]Want an Example?[/b] Refer to the Top Secret Silvia D-Spec S15. Notice how even without looking at the tuning setup, you can clearly see the front end is much higher than the rear end. It may be different otherwise when you actually look at the tune, but this is how I tune with a bit of science applied [IMG][/IMG]"

"Dividing the weight on the front springs by 4 (combined number of axles) and then by dividing that number with 3 (remaining axles) leaves you with an increment that you can follow going up or down. For example, if my front spring rate is 500lbs and I divide that by 4, I get 125. Dividing 125 by 3, I get 41.6. So i would have to add or subtract 41.6 to the Front Spring to actually tell a difference. This method can also be applied to the Rear Springs."
Special thanks to IRI GrandFX and CSI Ratava253 for the info in quotes
Rebound Stiffness

You guessed it. Same formula. The Rebound stiffness will always be 12 if you have Race Springs installed. so if my weight was 52% on the front and 48% on the rear, it would go... 12-1=11 11 x .52=5.72 (round to 5.7) 5.7+1=6.7 [b]6.7[/b] would be your Front Rebound stiffness and for the rear... 12-1=11 11 x .48=5.28 (round to 5.3) 5.3+1=6.3 [b]6.3[/b] would be the Rear Rebound stiffness

Bump Stiffness

Make it anywhere from 50% - 75% of what the Rebound stiffness is. For instance, if your Rebound stiffness was Front: 6.6 Rear: 6.4 Then make your Bump stiffness Front: Anywhere from 3.3 to 4.9 Rear: Anywhere from 3.2 to 4.8

Brake Distribution

Brake Distribution is based on personal preference. I find that 45% on the front suits me very well.

Brake Pressure

Again, Brake pressure is based on personal preference. I find that 120% pressure suits me very well


"Increasing the acceleration rate of the differential in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle will tend to make more oversteer as you exit a corner, as the wheels lock together and begin to lose traction under acceleration" - JoeGTR Basically, the more acceleration and deceleration, the more angle you will be able to achieve while drifting. on the other hand, it is much more likely to spin out.


Tuning gears is essential to drifting. you have to find the “Money Gear”. This is usually 3rd or 4th gear. Take your car to the track that you want the gears to be tuned on. I recommend using 3rd gear because it is the middle-most gear so you have other gears to shift into in different situations. Put your car in 3rd gear and drift a few corners. If you notice that your car is redlining (bouncing off of the rev limiter) too quickly which is causing you to lose speed, then tune the final drive 3 clicks towards the “speed” setting. This will make all of the gears a little bit longer which will make it redline later. Tune your final drive so that 3rd gear drifts most corners with around 1000rpm’s to spare until it redlines.
Just tuning the final drive doesn’t solve your problem sometimes. if all of your gears are perfect besides one gear, go to that individual gear and tune it. try to avoid going to extremes as it will through off your gearing a lot. for example, if you like your 2nd and 4th gear, but your 3rd gear seems like it bogs down (loses rpm’s) mid-drift, then go to the 3rd gear in tuning setup and tune it about 3 clicks towards acceleration. repeat this process until you are happy with the gears. keep in mind that some cars only have 4 gears and other cars have 5 gears or 6 gears.

Congratulation. You just tuned a drift car.
I’m sure that I am forgetting things here and there and I’m sure that many of you tune differently. This is just a general way to tune your car for beginners and pros alike.
If you have any suggestions, please leave a comment and I will add them in.

Uhhh. Nice. TXT book of upgrades man …


Why not make this a Tune Setup, and let us DL it?

Ummh I find it easiest to go on leaderboards, go to the first or second best tuner, then use that. Its the BEST tunes ever imagined, and it shows!

Thanks for the TuT though, somebody may use this!

I know but someone who doesnt have the game could look at what to do before they buy it and no prob just trying to help the community and build rep at the same time.

Thank You.:thumbsup:

Nice tut, I knew most of this. Was a couple of things i didn’t know that so cheers :stuck_out_tongue:
Also, i use weight reduction on my cars when drifting. Just seems to handle better for me.

Thanks and yes wait reduction does make your car handle better and faster because its lighter.